Sake sets: mixing or matching?

Walk into a good sake bar in Japan and you may be offered a tray of cups to choose from: different glazes, shapes and makers, so each guest picks the one that suits their mood. Some bars may bring a tray of handmade cups for each customer to choose one, a pleasing ritual which just adds to the pleasure, and some Japanese drinkers even single it out as a reason to visit a bar, Sake bars and Japanese restaurants abroad have copied it, saying that choosing a cup makes sake more approachable, or that it adds another dimension to the experience.

So should you buy a matching set, or build a collection piece by piece?

The case for sets

·       In Japan, gifts for a new household traditionally come in pairs, such as meoto ("husband and wife") cups, or a sake set to share. We do quite often find antique and vintage pairs like this, often boxed together. If you are looking for a pair like this, keep an eye on some of the antique sake cups.

·       A matching pourer and cups can appeal to those who want their table looking perfectly laid.

·       One big advantage is that cups of the same size mean everyone gets the same measure, which helps when pouring for each other.

·       As an aside, Japanese tableware is traditionally sold in fives, and sets of four are avoided because shi (four) sounds like the word for death.

The case for mix and match

·      Having a tray or shelf with a selection on display makes choosing part of the fun, and the different styles and shapes can be a great conversation starter.

·      Different shapes and rims can change how the same sake comes across so mixed cups let you compare a thin, shallow cup with a thick guinomi side by side (see our other guide).

·      Having a mix of sizes for your guests can sometimes work to your advantage. Yes, it is nice if everyone has an identical measure, but sometimes your guests will not want that, and their choice of cup can reflect that and there is less pressure to drink

·       With handmade pieces no two cups are identical anyway, and a mixed tray celebrates and emphasises that.

In conclusion

You do not have to choose one approach. Many people start with a pourer they love and a pair of cups, then add single cups over time. If you are buying a gift, a pair for a couple is the most traditional choice. If you are buying for yourself, pick the cup that feels right in your hand and that appeals to you.